Colorado, Utah, Arizona and New Mexico
The shopping list from our guests visiting from the UK was:
- Big vista’s
- No big cities
- Exposure to Native American culture
- Memorable sights and fun
- At least one day of hiking in Bryce Canyon
- Touring on Harley-Davison motorcycles (Dawn and Ray booked with Eagle Rider).
We finally decided that the Four Corners region would fit the bill perfectly, and set our starting point to be Grand Junction. I really wanted to get at least one day of off-road adventure, so we also took the Jeep Cherokee.
Before we start, here are some numbers from the final Itinerary:
- 7 National Parks/Exhibits (Mesa Verde, Four Corners, Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce Canyon, Oljato-Monument Valley, Canyonlands)
- 5 States (TX, CO, NM, AZ, UT)
- 11 Hotels (Quality Inn, Travelodge, Econo Lodge, Super 8, Kayenta Monument Vally Inn, Best Western, Days Inn, Santa Fe Suites)
- 10 Travel Days (Incl Activities)
- 13 Activity Days
- 8008 combined miles (2 x 1,828 on the HOG’s and 4,672 for the Jeep)
The plan was to head up to Grand Junction trailering my HOG, where we’d pick-up the rental HOG for Dawn and Ray. We off-loaded our trailer with the local U-Haul dealer until our return home.
The general format was to drive in convoy with my wife bringing up the rear in the Jeep. Once we got to key destinations, then we could switch out the HOG’s or the Jeep depending on the day’s activity.
Note. There’s way too much to write about all of the places we visited, so please consider this more of an overview. I’ve included links to the routes we followed, together with links to relevant web resources just in case you want to learn more and maybe visit yourself.
One big mistake was to forget to take a decent camera, so we relied upon phone cameras together with a dashcam in the Jeep and a Sony ActionCam on my helmet. There are some photo’s in this report, but you’ll also find links to photo libraries when you see [’description‘ album] in selectable text.
Day #1 – Travel – Arlington TX to Santa Rosa NM (513 miles)
This was the first time towing with the 2014 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk pulling a U-Haul bike trailer. Understandably the performance of the Jeep was effected, both in acceleration, handling and fuel consumption. Despite also being fully laden with four adults and luggage I really can’t complain. Since this vacation, I’m now on my 2nd Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk – a great ‘all rounder’ for the wife and I.
Our first stop was just outside Amarillo TX to ponder over the sight at Cadillac Ranch. It’s one of those ‘you have to check it out at least once’ especially if you happen to be passing. From a distance, the line of Cadillac’s driven into the ground is quite a sight, but on closer inspection the uniqueness exhibited by freedom of expression shrinks into caked on acrylic paint and a somewhat disappointing mess of desperation for creative recognition.
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Time to head out onto our first nights stop in Santa Rosa NM on the historic Route 66. We’ve stopped here a number of times before; it’s convenient as a halfway stopover on the way up to the four corners region; one of those towns that the Interstate now bypasses but enough character for a memorable evening at Joseph’s Bar & Grill.
Day #2 – Travel – Santa Rosa to Grand Junction (537 miles)
More scenic drive heading up into the mountains and more importantly, the first toast of the vacation over lunch at some town we stopped at which totally escapes my memory… although I think it might have been Poncha Springs CO…!
Along I50 we took a break by Blue Mesa Reservoir in the Curecanti National Recreation Area. As the mountains started rising up in front of us during this days driving, we knew we were in Colorado 🙂
Day #3 Activity Off-Roading – Grand Junction to Telluride via Black Bear Pass (258 miles)
Note. The trail for Black Bear Pass is not marked on this map, the route stops at the trail head and then restarts in Telluride because Google Maps doesn’t recognise the trail as a paved road. If you zoom in you can see the trail, look closely for a zig-zag pattern which depicts the series of switchbacks on the descent into Telluride.
Our first activity day – driving Black Bear Pass in the Jeep – This was very cool, we coordinated to meet up with two fellow North American Soft Roaders who were also driving 2014 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawks. There are rumours that Black Bear Pass may be shut because of fatal accidents, but to date, the trail is still open. From the trailhead to the ascent point is fun with great views, but nothing to shout about, that all changes when you hit the section called The Steps, this is where the butt puckering starts for first timers 🙂
Black Bear Pass isn’t all that technical, as log as you have good tires, brakes and a reasonable amount of ground clearance, honestly, 4WD or even All Wheel Drive isn’t essential (although it does help make you feel a little safer and gives you more control). As the name suggests, The Stairs is a section of hard rock steps with a camber towards the cliff edge giving you an uneasy feeling that any mistake and you’ll be taking to quick route down. Actually, this thought isn’t so far-fetched; a number of fatal accidents have occurred through simple mistakes which you’ll find with a Google search. We took our time keeping an eye on each other and spotting where necessary. The Cherokee is a very capable vehicle and with the addition of rock slider rails, made it’s way down comfortably. I was at a slight disadvantage to the others – I’d aired down before starting the trail, but being four up my ground clearance was reduced, I decided to add a few PSI back since my tread was good and I didn’t have any concerns about grip.
Once you’ve cleared The Steps, there is one relatively easy switchback after which you can take a break at Ingram Falls where the creek runs down over the trail. Just one warning, as you ford the innocent looking creek; there is a very disconcerting blind step which catches you off guard, especially if you’re going too fast. Always keep your wits about you and stay alert and all will be good.
Moving on, the second switchback is particularly tight so spotting is advised. You have to inch up to the edge for a 3 point turn and there’s nothing stopping you from taking a plunge to the bottom.
Accidents, often fatal happen on Black Bear Pass almost annually: ‘Durango woman seriously injured in Jeep rollover near Telluride‘.
Once you have taken this second switchback, then it’s time to relax and take in the views down into Telluride which are stunning especially on a clear day.
Seemingly perched on the cliff, it isn’t until you get down to the power station that you find the service road leading to Bridal Veil Power Station.
Continuing down the trail, once you clear Bridal Veil Falls, you’re home and dry, just two-way traffic to contend with :-). The trail eventually leads down into Telluride. For some I’m sure it’s no big deal, you’ll see regulars on the trail who seem to zip down without a care in the world. Be warned, this is no place to be complacent especially if you have passengers with you.
Once we’d chilled in Telluride with a few beers and something to eat, it was time to head back to Grand Junction. Off roading fun complete, now we could focus on our road trip for the next few weeks.
Day #4 – Travel in Convoy – Grand Junction to Cortez (228 miles)
Time to collect the rental HOG from Eagle Rider and start our tour. For our guests. it’s the first time driving in the US and 2nd time on a HOG, so we take it easy sticking to the Interstate 70 heading west into Utah and then south on 191 through Moab, past the Arches National Park and finally back into Colorado on 491 to Cortez.
The owner of Papa Joe’s Stop & Go gas station and convenience store at the I70/191 intersection is quite a character. I’d recommend stopping just to shoot the breeze with this guy.
Time to move on, heading down 191 towards The Arches National Park and Moab. Moab and all it has to offer is definitely on the bucket list for future adventures.
Had a great time on our first night in Cortez, luckily our friends Dan and Mary who live nearby in Dolores were available. Thanks so much guys for dinner and great evening.
Day #5 – Activity – HOG Ride to Silverton (92 miles)
If you’re planning a vacation to Colorado, consider fall to catch the Aspens. We were so fortunate to get the full effect of this amazing spread of color which cloaks the mountainside. The ride to Silverton along I555, the Million Dollar Highway was made even more amazing by the Aspens. We returned about 10 days later to ride the Durango to Silverton narrow gauge railway and the color had pretty much disappeared.
2nd night in Cortez was spent dining at the Main Street Brewery.
Day #6 – Activity – Jeep Ride to Mesa Verde
National Park Service – Mesa Verde
This is an exceptional national park to visit with amazingly well-preserved examples of Native American cliff dwellings. It’s easy to keep the stereotypical image of ‘Indians’ after growing up in the UK with only Hollywood cowboy movies, however, the long gone residents of Mesa Verde were very different, leading a simple existence and probably eating mainly vegetables and roots. There’s no definitive explanation of why these people eventually left their cliff dwellings but one theory is certainly the harsh dry climate on the cliff tops where they would have tended to crops.
Many of the dwellings are almost inaccessible since they are literally dug out of the cliff face or constructed in natural caves that can only be reached by climbing. Wooden ladder systems have long since gone, but there are a few excavations hidden in ravines that you can walk to and one ‘the balcony house’ where a guided tour takes you down replica ladders for a very real picture of life in this area.
Day #7 – Travel in Convoy – Cortez to Flagstaff (310 miles)
Navajo Parks & Recreation – Four Corners Monument
Given that this was a Four Corners tour it goes without saying that we had to visit ‘The Four Corners’, maintained on the Navajo Native Indian reserve, this simple exhibit marks the geographical location where Utah, Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico intersect with representation of local crafts from each of the states.
You won’t be stopping here very long but it’s another photo op 🙂
The highlight of this monument; yes, you guessed it – standing in four states at the same time.
The ride to Flagstaff was probably the sparsest in terms of scenery, but you certainly get the ‘big’ picture as you drive for miles over flat plains with very little in the way of mountains on the horizon.
Ray had been concerned about his rental not registering how much fuel in the tank accurately, and at one point we became concerned there’d have to be a gas run to top him off. Luckily, we made it to civilization in time 🙂
Day #8 – Activity – Jeep ride to Grand Canyon from Flagstaff (198 miles)
National Park Service – Grand Canyon
If you want to see BIG, then The Grand Canyon is a must while in the area, but as a side note don’t forget Canyonlands near Moab in UT; that’s big on a different scale!
Even stood on the rim of the Grand Canyon looking down it’s difficult to comprehend the scale of things. There are both north and south rim visitor centers, but we have always visited the South Rim Center where there are plenty of trails to walk along the edge of the canyon and many viewpoints and photo opportunities.
As you leave the Grand Canyon there are plenty of roadside vendors to buy Native American souvenirs and gifts, we decided to head over to the Cameron Trading Post to browse their store and decided to sample the Native American’ cuisine for dinner while we were there.
Day #9 – Travel in Convoy – Flagstaff to Hurricane 254 miles)
Before heading out to our next destination, we had a hearty breakfast at the Galaxy Diner in Flagstaff.
This ride took us through the middle of what seemed like nowhere with serious concern about the availability of gas, but literally in the middle of nowhere is Marble Canyon where US Highway 89A crosses the Colorado River. It’s quite amazing just as you don’t see the Grand Canyon as you approach it, the Colorado River has also cut deep into the rock just like a boxy trench with vertical walls that’s really not visible until you’re on top of it.
Checked in (Hurricane), ‘real’ wine provided by Dan and Mary from Dolores – thx guys, you are life savers.
You’d be forgiven for asking ‘where the heck is Hurricane?’, The reason we headed there next was that it’s within reasonable proximity to both Zion and Bryce; our next destinations. You may be familiar with the fact that the closer to any national parks, the more expensive the accommodation. Other than one night in Moab later in the trip, this was the only two-night stay in UT; the significance of which is Utah liquor restrictions- ugh.
Note to self, unless there’s a VERY GOOD reason, don’t plan on living in Utah.
Day #10 – Activity – Jeep ride from Hurricane to Zion (48 miles)
Hikers destination with a good number of well-trodden and well-marked trails. Once you’re in the park there is a free shuttle service to take you from one trailhead to another. Zion is popular with climbers and hikers alike.
Very good visitor center to get you setup for the day’s adventures, plenty of parking and camp facilities. We followed the Narrows trail until you needed to start wading, mainly because we’d been walking all day and weren’t too sure of how far and how deep we’d be going, but from all accounts, all of the trails are relatively easy as long as you’re in good shape and sound on your pins.
The park follows a canyon floor, so for a lot of the time, you’re looking up at cliff walls although there are also a few trails that take you way up. We could have spent a 2nd day easily at Zion.
Day #11 Activity – Jeep ride to Bryce Canyon (263 miles) for a day of hiking
National Park Service – Bryce Canyon
Bryce Canyon was expressly requested on our tour as a hiking day. When we arrived the weather was turning, but we got a window of 1-2hrs before the heavens opened allowing us to hike one of the trails down into the canyon. The rock formations and colours are quite amazing and unforgettable. As you drop down into the canyon, you’re shielded from the weather above and can notice a considerable temperature change.
Just like Zion, we could easily have spent a 2nd day at Bryce.
Day #12 – Travel in Convoy from Hurricane to Kayenta
The turning point of the vacation, starting to head back. This was the first of two days of rain so although we were riding, in some ways it was better than if we were sightseeing. The rain was heavy at times.
Our route took us back across the Colorado River again, this time in Page AZ where the Highway 89 bridge provides a photo opportunity of the Glen Canyon Dam.
We finally arrived in Kayenta, rain still coming down but managed to get rooms close to the parking lot, so hauling our luggage in and getting out of rain gear was a quick process, followed even more quickly with a refreshing beverage – we didn’t care that it was near beer 🙁
Rain finally stopped when we arrived at the Kayenta Monument Valley Inn – warning; not a lot of dinner options in this town.
Day #13 – Travel in Convoy from Kayenta to Durango (189 miles)
2nd day of rain which was a great shame as we headed through the iconic Oljato-Monument Valley, the rock formations were cloaked in low hanging clouds.
I found that wet weather can make some people do strange things:
Day #14 Activity – Durango to Silverton Narrow Gauge train ride
Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad & Museum
This was pretty cool, although it was a complete day’s activity, the train travels pretty slowly and stops once to top off the water tank, so, despite an early start, we didn’t get back to the hotel until almost dinnertime.
We elected to ride in the narrated car which was manned by a lady in period costume who not only talked about points of interest along the way but added some interesting background stories to link into the history of the railroad and the mining towns and supporting infrastructure that grew with the boom in industry for this area.
Nope, not a ghost with my wife, this was our narrator on the outward-bound journey.
Day #15 – Scenic HOG ride out o Durango (228 miles)
Time to slow down and enjoy a scenic ride on the HOG’s with a short stop in Pagosa Springs then looping down into New Mexico around Navajo Reservoir to Farmington before heading back up to Durango. It would have been nice to have looped north to revisit The Million Dollar Highway, but there was a section closed for repair because of a landslide, so it was difficult to plot a circular route that wouldn’t take us way too long.
Day #16 – Travel in Convoy from Durango to Moab (161 miles)
Note. We probably added at least 50miles onto this route when we headed out to Canyonlands after checking into the hotel.
National Park Service – Canyonlands
Making our way back towards Grand Junction to return the rental, we made good time to check-into our hotel on Moab and then head out to Canyonlands for a whistle stop tour.
Canyonlands is vast on a different scale to the Grand Canyon added to the almost alien rock formations. This is definitely a future off-roading destination in the Jeep, specifically a two-day trail called White Rim that skirts the canyon and includes a simple campsite midway.
We stayed in the park until sunset, despite its vastness it has an eerie atmosphere at dusk.
Day #17 – Travel in Convoy from Moab to Grand Junction (128 miles)
Another short ride. As you can see from this agenda, we were on the go doing something pretty much every day, so there comes a time when vacation and sightseeing overload kicks in.
Getting back to Grand Junction in good time was an opportunity to return the HOG rental back to Eagle Rider.
A word regarding Eagle Rider, I believe it’s a franchise, so they do have locations in many cities across the US as well as other countries, the problem is that when you experience problems you are at the mercy of your nearest location as to whether they can help, if you need a replacement ride I’m not sure how easy the process will be. Generally, the 2012 Ultra Limited Ray got was reliable, but we were all under the impression he’d get a more recent model. Riding a circular route, it might be a good idea to look into rentals from the local Harley dealer although I’m not sure how this would work if you planned a point-to-point route.
Day #18 – Travel from Grand Junction to Santa Fe (405 miles)
The first of our two-day drive back to Arlington, leaving the amazing scenery of Colorado behind, we headed to Santa Fe to introduce our guests to the South Western style of NM.
We had one of those memorable dinners at a restaurant that the name escapes me right now, but the adult beverage was flowing enough to elevate our voices – we blame it all on a concoction mixed specifically to celebrate the burning of Zozobra which you can learn more about here.
Day #19 – Activity – Relax in Santa Fe
They say if you have to ask the price then you can’t afford it – this is certainly the case in many of the shops in Santa Fe, so one day of shop browsing is certainly enough. It was nice to kick back for one last day; we decided to find a different restaurant to eat at for our last night 🙂 We ended up at the Tune-Up Cafe, located in a residential district; home style cooking from El Salvador. It’s a small place with no reservations so timing is important – highly recommended. Facebook page and restaurant website.
Day #20 – Travel from Santa Fe to Arlington (622 miles)
inal leg and the longest. We made good time arriving back in Arlington with time to eat supper before arriving home. Nothing really to report other than we picked what appeared to be the most direct route in the interest of time.
Summary
Of course, there is so much to see no matter where you go in the United States and never enough time. As a road trip, it’s difficult to say if we hit enough iconic sights for the mileage we covered, but we did our best to embrace both cultural and well-known landmarks and exhibits. We were incredibly lucky with the weather and so lucky also to catch the Aspens. Despite keeping to budget accommodation, this was not a cheap vacation, probably made worse by taking the Jeep, but I wouldn’t do it any differently; it’s no fun hopping on and off a scooter in hot weather to look at sights, or hiking all day and then climbing back on the scooter to return to your hotel, especially when it’s long haul back to base.
If I had any regrets it’s that we couldn’t ride more of the Million Dollar Highway and other twisties into the mountains of Colorado – there’s always the opportunity to return, maybe next time for more off-road adventures and camping as well.
Happy travels… 🙂
This blog has been rewritten and moved to ‘Adventure to Share’ with some updated content and references.